Me yasa abincin ba ya aiki? Ya bayyana ta Jaridar Kimiyya Harold McGee

Game da abincin mai kula

A cikin 1863, ɗan aikin Ingilishi William Bunting ya rubuta ɗan ƙasida mai taken Harafi kan Cikawa ga Jama'a. A zahiri, wannan shine littafi na farko akan abinci mai gina jiki, wanda marubucin yayi magana game da shekaru da yawa na ƙoƙarin banza don rasa nauyi - a 60 ya auna 100 kg. Gudun kwalekwale, hawan doki, baho laka da sauran matakan da ake ganin suna da tasiri kawai sun haifar da karuwar ci. Hanyar da ta dace kawai ita ce abincin da Dokta William Harvey ya ba Bunting, wanda ya ba da shawarar cire burodi, sukari, dankali, man shanu, madara da giya daga cikin abincin, saboda suna "cike da carbohydrates kuma suna haifar da rikicewar rayuwa." Bugu da kari, likitan ya shimfida tsarin cin abinci a bayyane wanda babu wanda ya taba yin hakan. A cikin 'yan watanni, mai gudanar da aikin ya yi asarar kilogram 30 a kan irin wannan abincin mai ƙarancin carb, kuma bugunsa mai shafuka 16 ya zama mai siyar da kaya a duniya.

Dan jaridar kimiyya Harold McGee, marubucin On Food & Cooking: The Science & Lore of the Kitchen, daya daga cikin mafi kyawun litattafan dafa abinci goma na karni na XNUMX, ya yi imanin cewa bala'in rashin nauyi mara nauyi da rage cin abinci ya fara ne da littafin Bunting. Tun lokacin da dan adam ya gano cewa abinci ya ƙunshi kitse, sunadarai da carbohydrates, kowane ɗayan waɗannan abubuwan an bayyana shi mara lafiya kuma an ware shi daga lokaci zuwa lokaci. Mun san marasa carbohydrate (ketogenic, paleolithic da abinci Atkins), mai-mai-mai (DASH da Pritikin), da abincin da babu furotin. Amma gaskiyar ita ce babu wani daga cikin waɗannan abincin da aka tabbatar a kimiyance yana da tasiri.

“Lokacin da na fara rubutu game da abinci, ina matukar sha'awar alakar abinci mai gina jiki da lafiyar mutum. Amma bayan shekaru 10, na gano cewa duk abubuwan da suka shafi abinci sun canza! Bayan haka, na yanke shawarar cewa ba zan sake yin wannan ba, - Harold McGee ya gaya mana yayin ziyarar da ya kai Moscow don bikin kimiyyar kimiyya na Twins. “Bayan haka, har yanzu masana kimiyya ba su da cikakken sani game da yadda jikin mutum yake aiki, menene ainihin abin da ake buƙata don ingantaccen aikinsa, yawan furotin, mai ko carbohydrates da ya kamata mu cinye, da kuma yadda canzawar rayuwa ke canzawa da rana. Ta mahangar kimiyya, babu wanda zai iya ba mutane shawarar su ci wasu abinci. ”

 

Game da manyan makiya bil'adama

A tsakiyar karni na ƙarshe, an sami maƙiyin lamba na ɗaya na ɗan adam a cikin Amurka, kuma ba Soviet Union bane, amma… mai! An ba da sanarwar cewa abinci mai kitse yana haifar da atherosclerosis da cututtukan zuciya, kuma yawan kitse da muke ci, yana ƙara haɗarin haɗarin waɗannan cututtukan. A yau, shekaru 60 bayan haka, likitoci sun gane cewa cin abinci mara ƙima yana da ƙima sosai saboda yana da yawan sukari da kalori. Amma ko da a nan Harold McGee yana ba da shawara kada ku wuce gona da iri tare da ƙuntatawa: “Ee, bai kamata a ci sukari daban ba, amma wannan ba yana nufin kuna buƙatar cire shi gaba ɗaya ba. Karas, lemu, ko tuffa suna ɗauke da sukari mai yawa, wanda baya cutarwa. Dangane da ƙuntatawa ta zamani na sauran carbohydrates, bari mu kalli Gabas: a China da Japan, matsakaicin adadin masu shekaru ɗari, kuma abincin su shine carbohydrates mai ƙarfi da ƙarancin furotin. "

Cewa duk mun bambanta

A cikin 2018, likitan Jami'ar Stanford Christopher Gardner ya gudanar da bincike don gano sau ɗaya kuma ga duka - wanne ya fi tasiri: cin abinci mai ƙarancin mai ko abinci mara ƙarancin carbohydrate? Gwajin ya ƙunshi masu aikin sa kai 600 waɗanda aka ɗora kan waɗannan nau'ikan abincin biyu. Sakamakon ba mai karfafa gwiwa ba ne: wasu sun rasa nauyi, wasu kuma ba su yi ba. Bugu da ƙari, wasu daga cikin masu sa kai har ma sun sami ci gaba! Daga wannan, masana kimiyya sun yanke hukunci mai banƙyama cewa abincin da ke taimaka wa wani ya rasa nauyi ba sa aiki da wasu. Komai na mutum ne.

Harold McGee ya tabbatar da wannan ka’idar: “Jikin ’yan Adam yana dacewa da kowane abu cikin sauƙi: za mu iya rayuwa a wurare masu zafi da kuma cikin Arctic. An gina jikinmu ne domin mu iya sarrafa duk abincin da za mu samu. Mafi kyawun nau'in abinci ga mutum shine sauye-sauye: akwai samfurori daban-daban, don haka tare da babu wani daga cikinsu akwai mai yawa ko, akasin haka, rashi. Idan kuna son rayuwa mai tsawo kuma ku sami lafiya mai kyau, kuna buƙatar kula ba kawai ga abinci mai gina jiki ba, har ma da matakai nawa kuke ɗauka kowace rana, menene matsalolin lafiya da iyayenku suka yi, da sauransu. Alal misali, Winston Churchill, ya mutu yana da shekaru 90, yayin da yake shan sigari da shan wiski a kowace rana kamar mahaukaci, yana son ci kuma yana da kiba. Manufar rayuwar farin ciki ita ce jin daɗin abin da kuke so. ”

Na Biyu Na Duniya Twins Kimiyya, shirya ta masu dafa abinci Ivan da Sergei Berezutsky, an gudanar da shi a cikin Moscow a ranakun 7 da 8. Nuwamba manyan jigogin bikin sune kimiyya, ilimi da hadewar sabbin fasahohi zuwa tsarin gastronomy na zamani da tsarin gidan abinci. Manyan mashahurai da masu binciken ciki sun gabatar da laccoci daga ko'ina cikin duniya: mai dafa abinci na gidan cin abinci na Maido Mitsuharu Tsumura, ɗan jaridar kimiya Bob Holmes, mai dafa abinci na gidan cin abinci na Disfrutar Oriol Castro, shugaban gidan cin abinci na La Calandre Massimiliano Alaimo, mai dafa abinci na LESS na Hertog Jan Gert de Rashin, Shugaban gidan cin abinci na Rijks Joris Beydendijk, ɗan jaridar kimiyya Harold McGee, ɗan jaridar gastronomic Anna Kukulina, mai dafa abinci gidan Savva Andrey Shmakov. Entranceofar laccar ba ta kyauta ba, ta yadda kowa, ba tare da la'akari da irin arzikin da yake da shi ba, zai iya koya daga fitattun masanan da masana kimiyya.

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